Monday, February 20, 2012

WHY This Obsession w/Crotch Curve, You Asked

HERE is WHY I am trying to PERFECT my SFD (almost perfect) pants blueprint, Becca.  I have strange things going on below my waist, such as:

One high hip - one low.
One fuller hip than the other by 3/4".
Long crotch LENGTH but short crotch DEPTH (I think--not sure about this).

When I make my pants up using the SFD blueprint for jeans, I get this "V" pattern between my hips in the center back.  Both pair of jeans in this post are Sure-fit Designs patterns.  This is one of those "tweaking" issues that Glenda talks about.  It seems to be a combination of issues though, and I need to break them down.

You can see it in the blue pair of jeans on the right even though there isn't a bright blue box around it.

THAT is what I am trying to get rid of.  It is in ALL the pants I make.

I sent the above picture to Peggy Sagers and she said:

The crotch DEPTH is too short
The crotch LENGTH is too long.

Well, if my "bowl" drawing is correct, it is the other way around.  We shall see.  Any advice Glenda?????

More later.  I'll post a pic of my muslin in a little while .......  Okay, a LONG while is up.  I did make a muslin today of my new pattern.  I cut it above the knee because I wanted to see if I was anywhere near correct before I cut out an entire pant.

At first, I saw the same V's.  I was soooooooooooooooooo sad and disappointed: 

Notice, I forgot to sew the darts in!  Duh!!!  I also have some pins taking in the side seams that were too big probably because the darts weren't in.  I think I pinched too much there.  Jerry came into my sewing room about that time, and seeing "something that needed fixing" he came over to assist me.  I'm sure he wonders WHY ON EARTH I don't know this stuff by now, but he knows better than to comment.  I would just cry and tell him I'm going to make more quilts.

So Jerry put a pin in the back, and this is what we got:

Notice that the V's are gone!  Yay!  Only problem is, there is still too much sag UNDER my bottom.  I knew what to do about that, so I took a dart across each hip as shown below:

Except for the strings hanging down the center, it looks pretty darn good to me!  Unfortunately, I didn't realize I had left the darts out until much later.  Actually, I probably don't even need them!

Those 3 pics above are the SAME PAIR OF SHORTS.  I can't believe the color is different in every picture.  They are dark brown.

I've got a bit more tweaking to do.  Obviously, I have to add the darts -- at least, in the front.  I'll post pics of my finished pants when I get them done.

Oh, yes, I almost forgot to share these helpful illustrations with you.  They were in a post from Germany or Russia or somewhere sent from a friend at Perfect Sew and Fit.  In the article, they had actually MADE a caliper out of Pepsi can strips, and they measured a lot of areas with it.  I was reading a translation, but even it was hard to make out.  I wasn't quite sure what these pics were telling me to do.

I have not tried measuring my body in a doorway yet.  Suppose I should try that next!!!

Hugs, Joy

1 comment:

  1. Okay, Joy Joy, if all I had was that itty, bitty "V" at the back of my pants I would be absolutely thrilled! I would be more concerned with the fullness at the thigh area, which I don't remember seeing when you were wearing them. But, I know you, my dear friend, they have to be perfect, not just, good enough. That's why I love you.
    Hugs, Phylly


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Hugs, Joy