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TUTORIAL: ROUND BACK CORRECTION



This may be one of the MOST important pieces of sewing/fitting knowledge out there.  I had never seen this demonstration before until Cynthia Guffey showed it to us at ETA.  I knew about the Upper Back issue and had done the Palmer/Pletsch method many times, but I never knew exactly HOW TO MEASURE to see how much correction you need.

There are several videos here, but they are short.

This one shows you how to measure the actual curve of your back:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqUNpKFafj8

The next one shows you how to correct your PAPER pattern for the measurement you now have:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnNQY8s5aRM

The following video shows the paper pattern after the adjustment against Phylly's back.

NOTE:  Correction to following video:  The garment would pull to your BACK -- not your FRONT -- without this correction.  I got it wrong near the end of the video.

ALSO:  Phylly didn't get pics of the paper pattern pinned together.  She went right to making a muslin which you can see below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8csVy9FqZPQ

Here are some pictures Phylly emailed to me this morning showing me the MUSLIN made up with the round back correction in the back.  It is a bit snug at her waist, but the back covers her high round very nicely and the top will NOT pull to the back trying to make room for it.
























And for those of you who don't sew with knit a lot, or -- like Phylly and I -- always have problems with the fit, here is a video showing how to figure out how much to allow for your pattern.  We learned this one from Peggy Sagers.


NOTE:  I need to point out that Phylly's bust is NOT "quite a bit bigger" than 41" as I say in this video.  It is only 1" bigger.  My mouth is the biggest thing around here!

Hope you enjoyed this "tut".  We sure had fun making it for you.

Hugs, Joy

3 comments:

  1. PhyllyFebruary 15, 2012 at 4:03 PM

    I just tried the green top on with a pair of yoga pants instead of the oversize jeans I was wearing last night. The top was hanging up front and back on the waistline of the jeans. It fits much, much better than it looks above. The back is very smooth. Even the front fits better. I guess I'm going to have to make more pants that fit.

    ReplyDelete
  2. AnonymousAugust 6, 2014 at 10:51 PM

    I've been thinking... Do you think a swayback could be measured using the two ruler technique? One ruler at the waist horizontally and the other along the spine? It's been on my mind all day.
    -Misty

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. JoyreeAugust 7, 2014 at 6:35 AM

      Misty:
      I have wondered that too. I know that 5/8" tuck at CB to nothing at the SS works for me, so I do that on everything.

      Delete

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Hugs, Joy