I worked on my muslin of Gertie's B5824 coat pattern today.
I had to do all the usual corrections to my paper pattern.
Sway Back:
Round Back:
Full Bust Adjustment:
I sewed the muslin together, and it isn't horrible, but it isn't right either. I am going to have to LENGTHEN it, obviously. I also need a little more room on the sides.
What I dislike the MOST is the collar. I hate collars anyway, and this is the reason why. They always want to stand up and wrap around my face. I want them to lay down on my shoulders. If you look at the picture of the blue coat at the top of this page, the collar isn't up around the model's face.
If anyone out there knows how to fix this, please advise me. I don't sew collars, so I don't know this fix. The shoulder slope seems to be fine. The back neck is lower than my SFD blueprint. Front and back both look fine when I compare them to my SFD front and back. Of course, they don't have a collar on them.
I guess I will experiment on my own if I don't get some advice. Maybe I'll post on Sewing Guild too.

They are at work or at school most of the time, and there are LOTS of people who love to watch Jourdyn so I don't know if I will get a turn or not.
Hollie is coming back on Monday from Alaska. She will be home for three weeks. John is off on some field mission or something with the Army. Hope I get to see her while she is here, but I never know my schedule until Jerry tells me what it is. We shall see.
That's it for tonight. I'm going to go crash in the recliner and watch Jerry watch TV with his eyes shut.
Hugs, Joy
Check out the Shawl Collar instructions on pg. 44 of the SFD Dress Kit Instruction book. I've made this jacket with these instructions and for the most part it lays relatively flat at the neck. It looks like Gerite's collar is simply a wider lapel on the shawl. One reason it is likely pushing up on your neck is that the outer curve isn't open/wide enough to lay flatter on your shoulders. You might consider asking Gertie how to get it to lay flatter.
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